Sports Magazine

One of the greatest dangers facing mountaineers or even hill walkers when crossing glaciers or steep icy slopes is that they will slip and then slid right off the mountain. The danger is not a theoretical one. Over the years scores of climbers have simply slid to their deaths.

The main instrument used to prevent this is an ice axe. It is an essential safety tool in that it can help prevent slips in the first place as well as allow a climber to stop themselves sliding using a technique known as “self-arresting”.

Choosing an ice axe

The first decision that needs to me taken is what sort of ice axe to get. There are three basic categories that ice axes fall into. The first is what are known as walking ice axes. These are generally quite long, about as long as a typical walking stick, and have a straight shaft with a relatively gently curved pick, or tip, on the head. They are traditionally used by hill walkers who mainly need a walking stick but also need the security of being able to stop themselves sliding. They are generally not used on very steep slopes.

Mountaineering or alpine ice axes are usually a bit shorter and will have a slightly more aggressive pick. They will often also have a curved shaft. The differences allow the ice axe to be used comfortably on steeper slopes and for slightly more technical climbing.

The final category consists of very technical ice tools. These, strictly speaking, are mainly for climbing near vertical ice and are less useful for self-arresting.

Once you have chosen your ice axe, which would depend mainly on its intended purpose, you have to size it correctly. Most people suggest that it should hang about two inches off the floor when held in the hand. This is a good rule of thumb but personal preference comes into the equation and you need to try out a couple of ideally use them on the mountain before deciding what you need and what size works for your climbing style.

Practising self-arrest.

The next important step is to get instruction from a qualified and experienced teacher or guide in the correct technique used for self-arresting. It is an essential skill and is best learned through repetitive practise. Try to find a gentle slope so that you can practise again and again, sometimes falling forwards and sometimes backwards. Mix in a couple of exercises where you are going down the slope head first. You want these skills to be hard wired into your muscle memory so that when the time comes to use them you don’t have to think but can just act quickly to save your life.